RoboDuckBuild

Tools we used

Only things that came out on this build, with what each one was for. Amazon links are searches carrying our affiliate tag, so pick whichever one suits you.

Measuring and fitting

  • Digital calipers

    Every pocket in the new head came from caliper measurements: the screen, the camera, the XIAO stack. Ours are Mitutoyo, but any steady 150 mm pair will do.

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  • Craft knife

    For pushing out the sacrificial skin in the leg links and shaving a pocket corner that came out tight.

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  • 2 mm and 5 mm drill bits

    Turned by hand, not in a drill: they clear the little support plugs in screw counterbores and the skin in the leg links.

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  • Precision screwdriver set

    Everything is M2, M2.3 or M3 Phillips. A PH0 and PH1 cover it.

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Glue and cleaning

  • Two-part epoxy

    The fix for a loose magnet. Superglue is brittle and grips nickel plating badly.

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  • Gel superglue

    A few dots hold the eye and camera rings on the face.

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  • Isopropyl alcohol

    Wipe a magnet before epoxy, and keep the build plate clean.

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  • Fine sandpaper

    Scuff a magnet's plating so the epoxy has something to hold.

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Electronics

  • Soldering iron

    The XIAO in the head needs its power and data wires soldered on.

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  • Small zip ties

    They hold the servo test board and power leads on the head bench stand.

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Printing

  • A filament dryer

    Support For PLA/PETG picks up moisture and then strings. Bambu suggest 12 hours at 60 °C. We use Bambu's AMS HT, but a standalone dryer does the same job.

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  • Bambu Lab H2D

    Our printer. Any printer that does PLA and TPU can make the duck from Luwu's files. Our tuned print file needs a 0.4 mm nozzle on both sides of an H2D.

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